For the benefit of regular readers, I make no apology for reviewing the Wall within a month or so of a mention in Epicure's Bites column. That's because I'm in love with the place. What was once a kosher butcher is now the grooviest, the most delectable, the most fabulous cafe in Balaclava. There might not be all that much competition, but Wall is great.
On the footpath outside, there are milk crates as seats, with coloured cushions, while inside there's a communal table and a series of alcoves that lead off from the counter. There are even tiny wooden tables (which seat one), attached to a couple of walls. The old butcher sign and a huge set of scales have been made into a feature of the cafe. Modern tones of gold, purple and ash color the rooms, there's a roller-door window to the street for takeaways, and the music is very cool. It may sound odd but it works.
Wall was designed by Six Degrees, the architectural firm behind the groovy Meyer's Placee bar in the city, and is run by David Sharry and Keith Shreeve. Shreeve set up Globe in Chapel Street and is still a part owner of Candy Bar in Greville Street, so it's no accident that he knows how to run a super-duper cafe. The food consists mainly of toasted pide, with flavours such as grilled eggplant, capsicum and goats' cheese, or artichoke, tomato and tapenade. There's always a soup - minestrone on one visit - and some fabulous pastries such as lime-curd tarts from Phillippa's bakery. The Genovese coffee is good.
Wall exemplifies the importance of not doing too much. And the importance of doing not much, really well.